Foundations and Bases

To create a blank canvas you will need to apply a foundation or base which will essentially clear the skin of any imperfections such as blemishes or skin pigmentations, this will create a one colour canvas. However when applying a base you must take into consideration what type of skin your model has, for example do they have oily skin if so you will need to use a base that is oil free and a mattifying primer in order to control shine. Your model may have dry skin if so you must use a base that will add moisture to the skin, you may also want to use a primer that will hydrate the skin (but is not necessary). Your model may be more mature in this case again a hydrating base would be more suitable. If you are working with younger skin or combination skin a powder base may be best as with younger skin you need to be careful not to cake the skin in makeup. As a makeup artist we must have all types of products in our kit to cover all areas of the skin for example the hands, chest and anywhere else that is exposed.

Preparing your Model:

• Place a wrap or gown round their shoulders in order not spill makeup on their clothes
• Clip any hair away from the face.
• Ask your Model whether he/she has any allergies
• Ask your Model what a skin type they have – this will make it easier to choose the best products for their skin.
• Make sure to Cleanse, tone and moisturise – in order to create the perfect canvas

Base/Foundation:

• Apply a suitable primer - this can be either a mattifying primer or satin primer.
• To achieve the best colour match you must decanter a small amount of foundation onto your stainless steel palette, then with your finger/foundation brush place some product on the jaw line as this will help you match the colour to the neck.
• If the foundations need to be mixed in order to get the perfect colour, again decanter the foundations onto a palette and mix together. (If the foundation is too thick add a little bit of primer to thin the foundation out)
• Apply the achieved colour onto the skin using a foundation brush. When using the brush use outward motions starting from the nose working you’re to the outer part of the face – making sure the foundation is blended.
• When working under the eyes make sure to get the foundation into all the small areas for example near the tear ducked etc.
• When applying the foundation make sure to get your model to stretch their face in order not to miss any creases for example under the bottom lip and also the ears.

Products used for Foundation/Base Step:

Illamasqua – Matte Primer

Kryolan – Ultra Foundation 8 Palette

Kryolan – Premium Foundation Brush (9930)

Concealers:

• Use a concealer to cancel out any imperfections that were not covered by the foundation.
• To get the perfect shade of concealer - decanter some product from a couple of shades and mix on a clean palette. (Go for 1 to 2 shades lighter)
• To blend the concealer use a small rounded soft brush. You can also use the foundation brush just to make sure everything is blended smoothly.
• Make sure to apply the concealer underneath the eyes, around the eyes, around the nostrils, corners of the mouth and on any blemishes/imperfections.
• When finished with concealer use a large kabuki brush to buff the foundation and concealer into the skin for a flawless/natural complexion.
• Concealer tip: A green concealer will cancel out redness for example a blemish. Yellow boosts and red/peachy concealer will cancel out darkness for example under the eyes.

Products used for Concealer:

Dermacolour - Camouflage Mini Palette

Kryolan – Small rounded soft brush (9712)

Powder:

• To set the base use a powder puff to apply translucent powder – this colour powder can be used on any skin tone.
• Use rolling motions to push the product into the skin.

Products used to Powder:

Illamasqua – Loose Powder (LP 010) 

Charles Fox – Powder Puff

My First Attempt:

As you can see on my first attempt I have managed to even my model’s skin tone out, as you can see on the side with no makeup she has a little redness on the cheek area. I have also covered the majority of blemishes on my model’s face.

However when you look closer there are a few blemishes that I did not manage to cover on her cheek. Next time I will need to be more observant and I will need to concealer any imperfections.

Overall I am pleased with my first attempt and look forward to perfecting my skills in order to create a blank canvas on my models.