Contouring and Highlighting

When creating structure or shape to your Model’s face you will need to contour, which will create shadows for example slimming down the nose. You will also need to highlight, which is when you bring certain features on the face forward for example the cheekbones. Highlighting and contouring can completely change the face so it’s important to understand that this method will need to be change for different face shapes.

Contouring

• Place a small amount of primer all over the model’s face – this will insure the makeup stays on.
• Put the correct colour foundation all over the model’s face and concealer in order to get an even canvas ready for the contour and highlight – make sure not to powder until the end.
• When finding the correct area to contour, ask your model to suck her cheeks in – this will then help you to find the deepest parts of the cheeks.
• To start with use a cream contour as this will give a more natural look and will also give a guideline for the powder contour.
• Use a red and slightly brown black mixed together to get the perfect colour to contour – however make sure to build with product.
• Use a foundation brush to place the cream contour colour in the hollow of the cheeks, make sure the contour is placed under the cheekbones in a curved motion in order to really create a contoured shape.
• Make sure not leave the hair line blank – just slightly blend some product in order for the contour to look natural.
• To thin the nose, use a small rounded brush and begin to trace down the sides of the nose. You can use your finger to blend or a clean fluffy brush. (To shorten a long nose, blend some product at the tip of the nose)
• To give the illusion of your model not having a double chin, contour under the jaw line making sure to blend downwards on to the neck.
• Use a loose powder and a powder puff to set all the cream products on the skin – this will get rid of the sticky feeling of the skin.
• Once the skin doesn't feel sticky use a powder contour to go over the cream contour – make sure to start with a little bit of product and add more if needed.

Products Used for Contouring

Dermacolour - Camouflage Mini Palette (Mixture of D32 and D13)

Kryolan – Premium Foundation Brush (9930)

Kryolan – Small rounded soft brush (9712)

Illamasqua – Loose Powder (LP 010)

Charles Fox – Powder Puff

Kryolan – Blusher Palette (Used 101 for Powder Contour)

Highlighting

• Use a soft fluffy brush to place a light reflecting powder on the tops of the cheekbones – Make sure to start with a small amount of product and build.
• Place the powder highlighter on the bridge of the nose – this will bring the nose forward and contour will give the illusion of a thinner nose.
• Place the highlighter on the forehead and a little on the chin  and on the brow bone for lift this will then give an overall glow to the model’s skin.
• Use a fluffy powder brush to finish the look off with blusher, place the blusher on the apples of the cheeks swiping the product up to the hair line in order for it to all look blended.
• Make sure there are no harsh lines, if so use the powder puff to soften the harshness. 

Products Used for Highlighting and Blusher

Kryolan – Glamour Glow Palette (Used Pale Tan)

Kryolan – Fluffy Powder Brush (9725)

Kryolan – Blusher Palette (Used Mixture of TO and R21

My First Attempt

Harriet After

Harriet Before

                   

For my first attempt I don’t think it was too add, however I did struggle with applying to much cream contour and finding the right mixture of concealer’s. I personally think I applied the blusher and powder contour really well. I think I need to improve next time by making sure to blend the cream contour really well and to achieve the correct contour shade.

Feedback received in class

• Use two to three shades darker for contouring
• Use one to two shades lighter for highlighting
• Need to make sure everything is concealed on the skin.
• Use fingers to blend and work cream products in.
• Powder well.
• Make sure it’s even and not stripy before applying powder.