'Seven Photographs that Changed Fashion'

This is a documentary of Fashion Photographer Rankin on his journey to recreate seven of his favorite fashion photographs in history.  

I really enjoyed watching this documentary and I decided that this was my favorite photograph out all iconic seven. Richard Avedon  had Dorothy Horan model for him in 1955 in his iconic Dovima with Elephants which was the cover for Harpers Bazaar. Rankin recreated this image with super model Erin O'Connor. I absolutely adore how these two images and how yet they are so similar but are very different at the same time, for example Dorothy is very elegant and natural from her pose whereas Erin is very rigid and striking. I personally think Erin stands out slightly more and she looks slightly uncomfortable whereas Dorothy looks as shes being captured in the moment which is what makes this photo so beautiful I think. Looking closer at the photo Richard took you can see that the elephants are being restrained and look slightly agitated, Dorothy brings a calming aspect to this photo as it's as if she's stroking the elephants in order to sooth them. I think the photo Rankin took is very high fashion and doesn't seem natural in comparison to Richards Photo.  

Elizabethan Makeup and Blocking out the Eyebrows

In our lesson we learnt how to Block out eyebrows using either Soap or a Pritt stick.

Soap Technique

• Firstly started with a clean face and make sure there is no product in your models eyebrows.
• Have bowl with warm water and a bar of soap.
• Use a small angled brush to create a paste on the soap.
• Apply the paste in the direction of the hair and then going against the grain - as this will make sure every hair is covered in the paste
• Repeat this process 3-4 times make sure to use a clean finger to smooth and bumps away.

Evaluation of Soap Technique

As you can see I could have done a couple more coats of the soap technique as you can still see my models eyebrows, however my model did have quite thick long eyebrow hairs. Also due to my models eyebrows being so dark I could have used a concealer to cancel out the darkness of my models eyebrows and then used my white concealer on top for the most coverage. Overall I enjoyed learning to do this technique and I can't wait to try it out again to perfect it.

Glue Stick/ Pritt Stick Technique

• To start with decanter some glue onto either the back of your hand or onto a stainless steel palette
• Using a spatula spread the glue onto your models eyebrow making sure its smooth and without any lumps
• Make sure to go in the direction of hair growth first and then against the grain.
• Use a clean finger to smooth the glue down the warmth of your finger will also help to eliminate any bumps 
• Apply a couple of layers making sure to waits for the first layer to be tacky and then to apply the next layer.
• If your in a rush used a hair dryer to speed the drying process - make sure to use the hair dryer on a cool setting
• Using a powder puff push powder onto the eyebrow to cancel out any shininess.

Evaluation of Glue Stick Technique

As you can see from the images I could have used a couple more layers of the glue as at the front of the eyebrow you can see some hair. However with this technique I found it cancelled out the darkness of my models eyebrows out better than the soap technique. I found with this one you had to be quick to apply the glue as it would quickly on the back of your hand. I was slightly a little more messy too as I found that glue went onto parts of the skin I didn't want it to. Overall I need to practice this technique a little more in order to perfect it.

Elizabethan Makeup 

• Start with both eyebrows blocked out either using the Soap technique or Glue stick technique
• Using a foundation brush or sponge put white foundation all over the skin - makes sure not to miss the ears or the neck.
• For the eyebrows stipple white concealer or foundation using a sponge - as this will not disturb the blocking out of the eyebrow.
• Use a translucent powder all over the skin using a powder puff - in order to set the makeup.
• Using a disposable mascara wand put white concealer or use a white mascara and coat the eyelashes.
• Use a pale pink blush colour on the apples of the cheeks making sure to be slightly heavy handed and also place a little of this blusher on the lips too.

Evaluation of Elizabethan Makeup

As you can see I've achieved a very even white base on my model, however I did not get enough product into her ears and I could have blended it slightly more down the neck for a complete even coverage. The blusher on the apples of the cheeks came out really well and the matching lip colour I was very pleased with. Overall I think I just need to improve on blocking out the eyebrows and making sure to put white foundation everywhere including the ears and the neck.

Ideas for my 'New Elizabethan' Make up

In my lesson with Kat were asked to think what our 'New Elizabethan' make up was going to look like by firstly putting it on a Face Chart. I've created four make up looks which all have aspects of Elizabethan Makeup but all have contemporary twist.

Design 1

The first on I created is extremely contemporary, however I wanted some aspect of Elizabethan makeup as you can see the skin is very pale and the eyebrows are blocked out which is typical for that era. I've made it contemporary by drawing a black line under the brows which would connect to the black line cutting through the crease of the eyelid. I've slightly contoured the nose by extending the black line down the sides with a little shading of a cranberry colour. I want the skin to be softly contoured with a hint of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks. I've decided I want the eyelashes to be coated with white mascara which is another element of Elizabethan makeup. the Lips I want them to be very bright and extremely crisp and neat. I'm absolutely in love with this makeup as it's very different, I will need to practice this look to make sure it comes out like this and whether I will need to change anything.

http://assets.wallpaper.com/wallpaper/live/galleryimages/17053816/gallery/Vivienne-Westwood.jpg

I loved this makeup created by Makeup artist Val Garland, I loved the use of very strong black lines. I tried to incorporate this into my look as this look has some aspects of Elizabethan makeup for example the skin is white and it looks as if they have hardly any blusher on which again is very Elizabethan. I wanted to make my design very bold so I defined the eyebrow by drawing a bold black line underneath. The lips are very similar to the Look Val Garland created as I want to make them very sharp and pointy and really enhancing the cupid's bow. 

Design 2

The second Face Chart I created is very grungy I personally think however again there are many elements of Elizabethan makeup for example the apples of the cheeks are very pink and the lips are very soft and is the same colour of the cheeks. I want the skin again to be very pale in order for the eye makeup and eyebrows to stand out. The eyes I want to be very messy and dark with a slight gradient going up to the eyebrows this will also help the white eyelashes to really stand out. The eyebrows are going to be very dark with white flicks. Again I love this Face Chart as it has the look of a New Elizabethan.

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This is look created by Val Garland for Milan Fashion Week 2011 for MAC Cosmetics. I was really inspired by the heavy smokey eye and soft powdered pink lip. I took inspiration by creating a dark smokey eye with contrasting white Eyelashes. The Elizabethan aspect is the very pale skin and the pale pink blusher on the apples of the cheeks. I used the same colour of blusher on the lips too.  

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Elizabeth_I_in_
coronation_robes_detail.jpg/300px-Elizabeth_I_in_coronation_robes_detail.jpg

As you can see from this Portrait of Elizabeth I she had the same colour of blusher on her lips, you can see the majority of her blusher is on the apples of her cheeks. I took inspiration by making the skin very pale just like her skin in the portrait. I also incorporated the technique of how she had her blusher applied by just having it on the apples and having the same colour on the lips. 












Design 3

My third Elizabethan Makeup look again is very simple but has but shows slightly more Elizabethan makeup for example the skin will be very pale and the cheeks and the lip colour match which is typical for that era of makeup. The contemporary twist would be the very dramatic eyebrow which will mean the eyebrows will need to be blocked out in order to get a thin black line. As the eyebrows will be very high up I want to contour the nose slightly and also the inner corner of the eye but making sure it's a smooth gradient. The skin will be slightly contoured as this will balance out the extremely contoured nose. The eyelashes are going to be intensely black and the bottom eyelashes will be white with white eyeliner in the waterline, I also want to bring the white eyeliner down slightly. I really like the simplicity of this looks and I personally think its a youthful makeup looks because everything will be very soft on the skin. 

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/21110691975434066/

While researching Elizabethan Makeup on Pinterest, I came across this makeup look. Everything about screams Elizabethan from the cheek and matching lip colour, the pale white skin and the blocked out eyebrows.
I took inspiration by blocking out the eyebrows however I decided I want to make it slightly more contemporary so I drew a bold black line where the natural eyebrow would have been. I loved the soft contoured nose so I decided to enhance and make it slightly more dramatic and unique so I contoured the nose to the extreme.  









Design 4

I think this Face Chart shows the most characteristics of Elizabethan Makeup as you can see the skin is pales the eyebrows are blocked out the blusher is on the apples of the cheeks the only thing that makes this contemporary is the bold red lips and the dramatic black eyelashes. However you can't really see it on the face chart but what I want to do with this look is to create a dramatic white cat eyeliner, this will give it the contemporary twist. I like this make up look however I will need to practice this look in order for my idea to be presented well. 

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/41306521555352116/

While researching Elizabethan makeup I came across this picutre and I was really inspired I loved that the focus was the bold dark lip. I thought it looked very Elizabethan as the skin is very pale and the eye brows are blocked out. I took inspiration and incorporated this into my own look by having the focus on the red bold lip. I also decided to have the eye lashes very black as I think this balanced out the makeup better. The eyebrows are blocked out and the skin is very pale. I decided to add a touch more Elizabethan aspect by having a similar blusher colour to the lipstick and focusing it on the apples of the cheeks. 

Halloween (October 31st)

This is the makeup I created for Halloween, I was really inspired by Cher's makeup so I created some dramatic eye makeup with a bold purple lip. Then to make it more Halloweeny I decided to make my Cher inspired make over burnt. I did this by putting liquid latex all around the side of my face, I layered the latex a couple of times and then with my tweezers I pulled at the latex to create holes. Once the latex had dried to used a mixture of a dark purple eye shadow and cranberry eye shadow to create the darkness of the burn. With a small detail brush I used black eye shadow to create depth to my holes in the latex this would help to make the holes slightly more 3D. Once I'd got the desired colour of burnt skin I used a gel based blood with a sponge and pressed this all over the burnt skin, however once the blood was dry you couldn't see where the blood was which was slightly annoying however I'm happy with how it came out. Next year I'll just have to remember to use a different blood.

Contemporary Elizabethan Portrait

Photographer: Andrew Yee
Stylist: Damian Foxe
Model: Edda Oscars
Hair: Ernest Montenovo
Makeup: James O’Riley
Designer: Balmain Fall 2012
Earrings: Oscar de la Renta

This picture isn't 100% Elizabethan as it actually looks slightly more renaissance, however there are aspects of this picture that are Elizabethan inspired. We'll start with the Hair and Makeup, firstly the hair is parted down the middle which is typical for an Elizabethan hairstyle as I've seen this is in many Elizabethan Portraits, I also love the simplicity of this hairstyle as it is very understated as I think the dress does all the talking in this picture. Secondly the makeup has aspects of Elizabethan makeup for example the skin is very pale and the blusher is mainly on the apple of the cheeks of the model, I personally think the makeup is absolutely sensational as the makeup artist has accentuated all the high points on the models face . The eyebrows seem to have been blocked out slightly which is a typical trait of Elizabethan makeup as they use to pluck all there eyebrow hairs off to create the look of a higher forehead. 

On to the clothes the model is wearing. The main reason I chose this picture is because of the dress, it is covered in pearls and crystals which is typical for an Elizabethan dress as you can see from the portrait below of Elizabeth I, she has blue pearls stitched onto her dress and is covered with these blue pearls. This Balmain dress has the same aspect of an Elizabethan dress because in that era the dress were very over the top and extremely flamboyant which is again why I've chosen this contemporary picture to compare to my Elizabethan portrait to create my 'New Elizabethan'. 

Contemporary Picture showing Wealth

http://www.vogue.in/content/cover-story-deepika-new-queen-bollywood

Model - Deepika Padukone

Vogue India September 2013

Photographer - Prasad Naik

This is Deepika Padukone she is a Indian Model and Actress and she has a very established acting career in Bollywood. In 2013 she was seen as the new queen of Bollywood and this is the inspiration for her cover in Vogue India September edition.

I personally think this picture screams wealth starting with what Deepika is wearing, she is covered in gold clothing with jeweled detailing. Her corset is a antic gold colour with a jeweled lining this portrays wealth to me as it shows an aspect of royalty. She is wearing a crown to show that she is seen as the new Queen of Bollywood. All these aspects show wealth as the clothing looks expensive and are fit for a Queen. Even her pose screams Wealth and power as she has her head tilted down with her one hand resting on her hip as if saying I am a Queen.

The background and set also portrays wealth and power as the furniture has accents of the same antic gold colour Deepika is wearing. The Chair she is standing next to looks expensive and very regal and this would something I'd imagine a Queen to have in her palace. Also the wallpaper has a regal feeling and again it has accents of gold running through the wallpaper pattern. The Light and mirror hanging on the wall behind Deepika I'd aspect something similar to be hanging in a Palace and the colour of the mirror and light says to me very expensive.

I think the photographer Prasad has captured Deepika very well as the New Queen of Bollywood, as I personally think this picture portrays what I think a modern day queen would look like. Deepika looks extremely sexy and powerful and I'm sure most women would dream to look like her.

Identity Revealed - a filmed triptych by Ellis Faas

"Since ancient times, humans have been using masks - in order to express power and authority; to feel self-confident; to stand out or to hide behind; to not be recognized and disappear into the masses. Not only by traditional masks, but also by disguising and ornamental elements such as clothing, jewellery, hair and makeup. But can one truly change one's identity, or is it merely a temporary transformation? And who or what defines someone's true identity? Is it the mask, is it the human being behind the mask, or maybe even the creator of the mask?" - Ellis Faas

https://softlysometimes.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/unnamed3.jpg

http://softlysometimes.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/unnamed2.jpg?w=840

Ellis was born and raised in the Netherlands. From an early age on, Ellis had a good eye for fashion, coupled with a strong opinion about what was or wasn't beautiful. She plastered her bedroom walls with images from Vogue and would often make her own clothes (sometimes with great success; other times failing miserably). She also developed a passion for photography, especially in the documentary, portrait and over-stylised fashion and beauty genres.

When I first saw the video I had absolutely no idea what was going on and why these models were wearing funny shaped masks which made me wonder why I was watching this to be honest. However once I'd read what it was about and the reasoning behind it, it made much more sense and helped me to appreciate it. I loved that the masks weren't just made by materials but also makeup she used different types of materials not your typical materials such as paper, she'd used wires and cloth. It was also strange that they weren't your typical masks which you cut holes out for your eyes, nose and mouth once mask in particular had no holes. 

Websites Used:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=taIWlCi9SxQ
• http://vimeo.com/109956784
• http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/